You'll find a little of everything here. Genres covered in this blog include (so far) prehistorics, fantasy, old west, swashbucklers, pulp, Blood Bowl, Ghostbusters, gladiators, nautical, science fiction and samurai in 6mm, 15mm, 28mm, 40mm, 42mm and 54mm sizes. You'll also find terrain, scenery, basing, gaming, modeling, tutorials, repaints, conversions, art and thoughts in general about the hobby.
Thursday, October 23, 2014
Actually, three of these figures are zombivors, but I've painted them as survivors. This way, I can use them in other zombie/post-apocalyptic games.
I also picked up the Kevin Walker guest artist box: Uncle Honk and Mitch. Mitch was easy; I drybrushed three layers of Foundry Storm Blue for the denim. I used an old, small brush to carefully drybrush the base layer of flesh, followed with simple applications of highlights. It's been a while since I've painted some figures (more than a month is a long time for me,) so I was entirely in my groove, but this is a start.
I think I had a good idea with Uncle Honk with those harlequin diamonds, but they went on a little thick. There was so many opening and closing of paint jars (three shades for five different colors), that I rushed through his painting. The diamonds are actually very easy to do, they just require you to use a little patience and slow down. (I still think he looks great from a distance, from which he'll be viewed anyway, so I'm going to leave him as is.) Really, all of these were rushed, but these aren't my favorite survivors; I just wanted to get some color on'em.
I have three or four more zombivors who'll be getting the extra-survivors treatment, and then ALL of my Zombicide figures will be painted! And then I'll have to sit around waiting for Season 3.
Thursday, October 16, 2014
To help populate the new board, I finished up a few more of these post-apoc scrap heaps using old electronic, tech and mechanic bits. The seats were torn out of a couple of my Machinas cars. The figure is 54mm (for those new to the blog who might not know I game my PA stuff in the larger scale.) I haven't played a game yet on the new board, but hey, I set up this fun post-apocalyptic bazaar:
Tuesday, October 14, 2014
Here are some shots of what each game would look like on my new post-apoc road board:
|A game of Machinas. If you really want to, you can drive on the sidewalks, too.|
|A game of Qwik. The sidewalk and crosswalk are part of the field.|
|Red Sand Brown Sky (post-apoc gladiators,) showing how terrain extras can be used to mark off a smaller arena.|
I painted up the sidewalks in a medium granite color. I followed this up by painting the curbs red on the corners (no parking!) and yellow along the sides (no parking/temporary unloading.)
I kept these colors fairly bright because the next layer of color was a light gray to highlight and add wear to the sidewalks.
I followed up the light gray on the sidewalks with a general drybrushing of tan all over the board. I kept the paint on the brush as dry as I could, and I used it to scrub the board with a lot of force.
That layer dried quickly. I grabbed a liner brush and some black paint, and I started painting random crack patterns to emphasize the movement zones. I darkened the seams between sidewalk sections as well as the cracks.
I was originally going to go in and highlight along the edges on one side of all of the cracks to give them a more 3D appearance, but I was happy with how the black lining came out somewhat muted; I wanted to define the movement zones, but I didn't want the board to look like it had a strong grid pattern painted on it.
My post-apoc fluff setting doesn't have a scorched earth, more of an abandoned earth, hence the greener grass. I used white glue for the large patches of grass and superglue for the lines of grass sprouting up through the cracks in the road.
In case you can't easily see the grid lines implied by all of the terrain features, below I made some images overlaying a grid over the board for each of the games I plan on playing.
|Grid for playing Machinas. Since I play 54mm (1/32 scale), there's only space for a 4-player game.|
|Grid for playing Qwik. I didn't want to divide the road into 5 lanes; this is why the Qwik field uses one of the sidewalks.|
|The entire board can be used to play Red Sand Brown Sky (post-apoc gladiators.) Each zone is 3 inches square.|
Monday, October 13, 2014
The board is around 20 inches by 24 inches. It started as a low-priced sketchboard from Hobby Lobby (hence the handle already cut into the board.) Then I glued down a swath of gray VFF suede (a faux suede fabric that gives a great foundation for playing games on; it's soft, so provides great padding for falling minis.)
I had a little trouble finding a good adhesive that worled well on wood and fabric and that I could use great quantities of, so I settled on good old PVA (white glue.) I was still able to peel the edges back a little bit with light force, so I went primitive and framed the edges with duck tape.
Next came the sidewalks, which are more incidental pieces used mostly to wall in the "Machinas" portion of the board. They are made from 1/4-inch blue foam. The sidewalk markings and cracks were engraved using a sharp pencil.
Next came lots of masking tape so I could paint my lane markings (and the crosswalk, which I think makes the board look a lot more legit.) I also stained the middle of the lanes with black to represent where oil stains haven't been worn away by tires. The yellow center lines and the oil stain lines actually serve a purpose: They are the horizontal borders to my area movement zones that will be used in Qwik and Red Sand Brown Sky. The sidewalk lines were also engraved to serve as area movement zones -- don't worry, everything lines up.
And that's where I'm at with this easy and fun project. Next up will be to paint the sidewalks. This will be followed up with plenty of weathering to add dust over everything. The final painting will then be a series of cracks, tar marking and road sections to delineate the vertical lines of my area movement zones. After all the painting is done, then I will add grass to the areas inside the sidewalks (as if they're sidewalks bordering yards.) I will also add plenty of grass along many of the cracks in the sidewalks and the road cracks.This will be a post-apocalyptic road, after all.
Having a flat board will make it easy to add modular pieces, debris and barricades and such (to mark the edges of my qwik field, or to wall off the arena for my post-apoc gladiators.) When the board is done, I will take photos of it showing how each game fits on it.
Sunday, October 5, 2014
As I usually do on Sundays, I went to hang out with my friends Bryon and Jenn. Bryon had finished assembling his coastline skirmish board, so we started painting it today. Here are just a few pics of the small amount of work that was done on the board.
|The board assembled. This is all Bryon's design, which is turning out pretty sweet.|
|Bryon adds a basecoat.|
|Bryon painted the beach, the ocean (classic blue still looks nice), and later the rocks. I added the foam for him.|
|We found a stopping point to have a couple quick samurai skirmishes on my board. Yep -- plenty of space for 42mm minis.|
Wednesday, October 1, 2014
None of my hobby shops carry the large foliage clusters by Woodland Scenics, so I had to order some online. The board is otherwise finished, so here are a couple shots with a few of the samurai to give you an idea of the size of the board.
|The whole board with a few added trees.|
|Charging around the right flank.|
|The center of the line (photo taken from the pond)|
Monday, September 29, 2014
|Still needs flock and grass and foliage and water in my pond. The handle is hidden under the flat rock hill at lower right.|
The strategyThe theme here is supposed to be a Japanese garden, but when it's done, it won't look anywhere close to as prim, balanced and intricate as a true garden. But it will still provide a great arena for playing duels and small skirmishes with my 42mm (Steve Barber Models) samurai.
My original idea was to do a hill in the middle of the board, but that sacrificed a lot of playable space. With the hills pushed to the corners, I have fewer slopes to deal with (though, the larger-scale figures don't tip as easily; it's almost a none issue.) I also like having extra flat space so I can add trees, buildings and other terrain to customize each game.
The basic steps
|Foam glued and seams "plugged."|
I stacked some blue foam and cut it with my foam cutter, slicing out some gentle gradients. I also used the foam cutter to cut the pond out of the ground board. Everything was glued together. I used paper mache to cover up the seams where the hills met the ground to provide a smoother transition.
The rocks are all real. Primed with black and drybrushed. (With a porous surface, these rocks take primer and paint like a champ.) I used generous amounts of epoxy resin to secure the rocks to the board, especially if I'll be hanging this board on the wall.
|Paint applied; the pond really isn't that blue.|
And what the hell, it's a Japanese garden. It needs Koi. These were surprisingly easy; they were just a few tiny random strokes of white and light grey, followed up with random stipplings of a couple shades of orange. I also have a large stepping stone (large enough to hold one 40mm base) that will go into the pond between the two schools of fish.
I'll be pouring some two-part epoxy resin into the pond to complete the water effect, but first I need to add grass to the whole board; I plan on putting grass all the way to the waters edge (no rocky/muddy bank this time around.)
For large-scale bushes, I want to pick up some Woodland Scenics foliage "clusters" which are much larger than the usual foliage clumps used on many minis bases. These clusters will be placed among the rocks to create little groups of landscape that will help separate the board into areas, providing hiding places for ninja, and forcing fighters to choose lanes during maneuvering.
My local hobby shop -- the only place I think has the clusters -- isn't open today, otherwise, I think I could finish this board. Oh well, I think it will certainly get done this week. Then the samurai will have a nice place to spill blood.
Edit: Static grass applied
The two figures in the photo are 42mm samurai to show the relative size of the board. It's not a huge board, but it's certainly big enough to accommodate a half dozen figures on each side of a skirmish. (I use THW Red Sands Blue Sky rules which work wonderfully for samurai.)
Saturday, September 27, 2014
Thursday, September 25, 2014
I haven't painted any minis in the past week, but I've still been throwing paint. Here's a portrait of Mouse. Technically, Mouse is indeed minis-related: I didn't start drawing and painting him until after I began playing "Mice and Mystics." I haven't played the game in a while, but the inspired art still pervades. I used some of my craft acrylics as well as some of my minis paints for this (on canvas.) The Vallejo paints were nice; they stayed wet for a good time, allowing me to blend colors for longer.
Though, I haven't been been painting any minis, I have been working on making a new terrain board for my samurai. I helped my friend Bryon build his own terrain board and it gave me the itch to make my own. When It's done, I'll do a complete post about it. It'll be sweet. It has a small waterfall.
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
And I have been painting minis finally, just a few random figures -- a little bit of color here, a little bit here. I'll post a small group shot when I get some done.
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Here are some things I've done to pass the time (not recently, just in general.) The first is Mr. Monkey Head. I sculpted him out of Sculpey when I first started trying it out. He turned out fantastic. I keep him around to curse my enemies.
He was fun to make, and I got some OK practice painting over large areas. (He's a little larger than a racquetball.)
This is another animal for my totem. I call him Voody Bear. He was actually quite easy to put together.
The pins are made from wooden spheres attached to long brass pins. Yes, I sharpened them so I can use them; this isn't a kid's toy ... well, not TOO much of a kid, anyway.
Voody bear sits on the shelf keeping an eye on everything while the master is out. On some days, he's the subject of some of my sketches and paintings, mostly because he's easy to paint.
So, until I get back to the painting table (or the sketchbook, which I'm going to try today,) enjoy Monkey, Voody and this watercolor painting of Voody walking in the rain. Or get off your lazy ass and paint some minis! (I'm speaking to myself mostly :)