While I waited for the primer to set on my figures (I give primer coats 24 hours to fully set for strength), I threw together these containers. The barrels started off as stacked caps (random wooden bits I had sitting around); you can use wooden dowel just as easily. I scored (deep) panel lines into a length of card and wrapped it around my (glued) wooden stacks cutting off the excess.
After the glue dried, I used some of my home-made rope to wrap the barrels (gluing the rope down, as well.) The lids were made from greenstuff. Paint and base- done!
The sake jar was previously done, I'm just showing it again based. You'll also notice a nice jar based with a couple barrels- that was another random wooden bit you can pick up at Hobby Lobby (comes in a bag of 10-20 or so.)
The large tub was made the same way as the barrels; I scored lines into a long panel, and then glue the ends together around a large wooden form (whatever fits- it's better to fit the panel around whatever wooden form you have rather than fitting the form to the panel.) Do not glue the panel to the form- the form is simply to help you maintain a circular shape. I removed the form and then poured gobs of 2-part epoxy resin into the tub. Five minutes later, water! Time for a samurai bath.
These elements are all mounted on 40mm bases. They make nice scenic elements but can also be set up as barricades.
Almost time to paint some more samurai!
Great idea and nicely done.
ReplyDeleteCheers
Christopher
Thnaks for this tutorial, you had a very good idea here.
ReplyDeleteI'll probably use your technique for barrels.
Same comment for your other scenary post ;)
Hey, Carmen. I'm new to terrain building. What is the "card" you're talking about scoring to make your barrels? Those are super cool.
ReplyDeleteShort answer, it's just cardboard. Longer answer, if you go to Hobby Lobby, you can get what is called mat board. It comes in huge sheets, so one sheet will serve a lot of small projects.
DeleteThough, the larger you cut the pieces (if you're constructing buildings, for example), the more they might tend to warp (just a little) over time, so you might back any larger panels with some kind of simple framework.
Oh, yeah I know all about mat board. I'm a graphic designer, and in college I cut a ton of mats. I still have some scraps.
DeleteIn fact, Michael's stores and Hobby Lobby stores will usually sell you small scraps for nearly nothing. If you catch them in a good mood, they'll just give you a handful of cuttings from their latest framing job.
I know from experience that sealing mat board is important if you don't want it to warp. Just a simple spray spray acrylic sealant will keep out moisture. Mat board usually has a backing board attached to the "pretty" facing board, and that acts as a sort of hygrometer as the backing board will absorb more moisture from the air than the facing will. That causes the board to warp toward the facing.
Now I need to go dig through my scraps and find some mat board. Thanks for the tip!
And thank YOU for the warping information. Acrylic sealant- got it!
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