So here are my first prototypes of the three zombie classes in the Zombicide game. I finally settled on a green palette for my toxic zombies; I got rid of the neon green look because it just wouldn't match up well with the other zombies.
Under each photo below is the palette I used for each zombie type. The colors come from a combination of Foundry, Vallejo Model Color and Reaper HD. I still might change up the toxic zombies just a touch; I think I'll use a slightly darker base coat, thought these still work for me.
Normal Zombies
- Start with a base coat of black.- Do an all-around overbrushing of the figure with German Grey (167). Black and darker clothes can stop at this point.
- To a top-to-down drybrushing of Grey Green (165). This serves as sort of a basic light source highlight.
- Start highlighting the skin with Neutral Grey (160). This can also serve as a final highlight for medium to light clothes.
- A highlight of Sky Grey (154) on skin, and on the lightest colored clothes.
- A few conservative highlights of white on the skin.
Note: Skin tones (caucasians and even the Irish) are actually darker than white (unlike what I've done in the above palette). But since these are pale zombies, I've made the skin the lightest tone in the palette. The same goes with the toxic and berserker zombies.
I've eliminated the "such and such color also used to highlight clothes/skin" note in the following palette lists. At this point, I figure you can decide how dark or light you want to make your own zombies' clothes or skin.
Berserker Zombies
-Base coat of Foundry Red Oxide 102B (or C for a little bit more contrast.)- All-around overbrushing of Foundry Spearshaft 13A
- Top-to-down drybrushing of Reaper HD Burning Orange
- Begin highlighting (especially skin) with Foundry Orange 3A
- More highlighting with a mix of Foundry Orange 3A + Foundry Ochre 4A
- A final skin highlight of Foundry Ochre 4A
Toxic Zombies
- Base coat of Reaper HD Field Grey- All-around overbrushing of Storm Green 27B
- Top-to-down of Foundry Forest Green 26C
- Highlights begin with a mix of Foundry Forest Green + Yellow 2C
- Lighter highlights of the same Forest Green/Yellow mix, but lightened using Raw Linen 30C*
- A final highlight of Raw Linen 30C
* (Too much yellow starts to add a neon quality to the palette, which is great if you want radiated zombies, but doesn't match the muted look of the other zombie types.)
Great work
ReplyDeletePity about the demise of the neon zombies, but the new scheme makes sense, as you say. They look great and I'm guessing will make sense when playing the game.
ReplyDeleteGreat stuff. I particularly like the Toxic and Normal finishes, MIght steal the Toxic look for some of my ATZ zombies, good job
ReplyDeleteI really like your choice of colours. What a great idea!
ReplyDeleteThey look great.
ReplyDeleteVery nice and thanks for the color palette. The toxic colors do look better mixed with the other ones.
ReplyDeleteGreat explanation thanks - I'm of to my shed to try the Black and White palette out on some historicals.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Pete.
They look great. Followed your link from BBG. Thanks again!
ReplyDeleteAwesome work!
ReplyDeleteWould you consider doing a short youtube video of yourself painting one of these to show us amateurs how it is done?
ReplyDeleteI HAVE considered it, but all my skills went to painting and not video-shooting. I'll have to learn how to use my camera's video function again (I bumbled through it once) and especially how to make the video file small enough to upload.
DeleteBut when I do learn, a video tutorial on grayscale/monochromatic painting will be one of the first up! :)
It's really not that hard, but I guess that's what you're telling us about your mad painting skills ;)
ReplyDeleteI've made instructional video's using the camera on my phone, just make sure it's steady and there's plenty of light and keep your hands in the shot. If you have a proper webcam it's even easier, because you get a live view of what you are filming on your monitor while you are filming. Just talk a lot, tell us what you're doing, what you are using, and why you are doing it like you're doing it. A picture is worth a thousand words, but a video is even better :)
Really love this. I started on the normal zombie but I'm really struggling to get the level of contrast that you have here. Mine just end up looking very grey. :(
ReplyDeleteTry this: Just use three shades (over black.) Choose a dark gray, a white (or something close to white), and a medium gray that falls about half way between your dark gray and white.
DeleteThat should guarantee some contrast. And if there's too much contrast, introduce one more level of shade.
-OR-
Do a black inkwash over what you've already done; it won't help with contrasting the colors, but it will help redefine the lines and shapes of your figure.
... Also, don't forget to use your lighter colors sparingly. Try leaving the clothes dark, and using the final white highlights only on the skin.
DeleteI love the way you've painted your Zombicide zombies and survivors. I have this page saved to my favorites, because I love it so much :) I do have a question. Did you use primer on this figures? If so, what color? I'm still new to mini painting and I was wondering how you added the depth to the figures and whether that was with the base coat alone or with a black primer + base coat?
ReplyDeleteThanks for the compliments, Claudia
DeleteFor primer, I use Testors Flat Black (no. 1249.) It is about the best primer/figure material combination I've ever used. So clean the figures; let'em dry. A couple light coats of the flat black. Then regular painting as explained in the post (or your own techniques.) But the Testors Flat black works great.
Thanks for your reply and advice!
DeleteAnytime.
Deletevery nice... u use wash/shade/quickshade/inkshade .... in zombies, after finishing this painting process ???
ReplyDeletety
Nope. I lightly drybrush over a black primer allowing the black to show through in the wrinkles and joints (much like blacklining without actually painting the black lines). I get a little more control than with a wash/dip this way.
DeleteI did not think I was going to paint my Zombicide till I saw yours and how beautiful something as simple as monochrome could look on the table. Thank you for the inspiration.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Robert
Is there any way you can post a closeup showing a combo of fatty, runner, and abomination? I'd love to see them in your color scheme. I can't wait to try this on my minis!
ReplyDeleteI have one question: do you find it difficult to tell the difference between runners and walkers when they are the same color scheme? I was originally going to use color to differentiate different types (runner/fatty/abom/walker) but then they release TCM's toxics and Season 2's Berserkers...
Sure- I'll post it in a few minutes.
ReplyDeleteSweet! Your style is very unique! Check out my collection:
ReplyDeletewww.youtube.com/watch?v=JbXbCBIDFME
Have you come up with a color scheme for monochrome black plauge zombies? Ideas?
ReplyDeleteActually, I did -- I just haven't posted to the blog in months and months (new house, new girlfriend, life changes.) But for Black Plague: For the normal zombies, I chose a sepia-style palette, using Foundry's Buff Leather triad with a final highlight of Linen (on the skin.) For my Deadeyes, I went with my classic grey. I have yet to paint the wulvs.
DeleteSince this game is independent of the modern version, I don't see why those original colors couldn't be recycled.
The original grey (for modern Z) I chose specifically to mimic Night of the Living Dead; most of the colors (for the grays and other zombie types) were chosen based somewhat on the plastic color.
Lastly, I DO plan on posting again, real soon!! My gf told me to do so today actually. Lots painted figures to show, but a pulled calf is slowing me down. We'll see :D