You'll find a little of everything here. Genres covered in this blog include (so far) prehistorics, fantasy, old west, swashbucklers, pulp, Blood Bowl, Ghostbusters, gladiators, nautical, science fiction and samurai in 6mm, 15mm, 28mm, 40mm, 42mm and 54mm sizes. You'll also find terrain, scenery, basing, gaming, modeling, tutorials, repaints, conversions, art and thoughts in general about the hobby.

Monday, May 31, 2010

54mm Waiteri tribe: Archer

Here's an in-progress shot of my archer. The bow was hammered out on the anvil and wrapped with twine. The wrapping served two purposes here: Simple aesthetics and to create a better fit into the hand holding the bow. I still need to add feathers to the arrows in the quiver, and give her some flowing hair.

The short flowing cape on her was an afterthought. I had some leftover greenstuff from last night's work, so I made another animal hide, bunched it up a little and let it cure. I dry-placed it on her and thought it looked nice, so I glued it on.

I think this will be the m.o. for the rest of the tribe. I'll make a small cache of skins and hides and apply them as I go along. Since furs are a little heavier, and I want to control the direction a little more, I'll still apply those direct to the figures. Hair, loin cloths, equipment and leggings will also be applied direct to the figures.

I'm also happy that I've managed to keep these figures balanced. After applying all that greenstuff, the figures in the photo here are free-standing. I must be doing something right.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

54mm Waiteri tribe: Shaman work is finished

The shaman conversion work is all done (as far as I can see), except, of course, for basing and painting. Something new I learned with the day's work was how to do short fur. I wanted the smilodon's hide to have short fur. After a short look through my tools, I found a metal wire brush. Stab, short drag and repeat; short fur as easy as that. This is great because I didn't want all of my cavemen to be in heavy furs.

Still, I after I added the hide (sculpting it first before draping it over the figure), it wasn't as full as I had wanted it, so I added a (lion's) main to help fill out the neck area of the smilodon and to give the who thing a little more weight.

Also, as promised, this shaman is butt-ass naked. When I paint him, most of his skin will be black, as if he has covered in charcoal paint so as to hide himself beneath his animal spirit puppet (I need a better word for that.) The smilodon skin will be painted with a light tan. I'll also add a few spiritual symbols painted straight onto the hide.

I'm pretty happy with this figure. It came out almost exactly as I had him pictured in my mind. And him being the most difficult figure I had expected to do, makes me feel good about doing the rest. I'm still worried about doing hair on the tribe; this is something I think I still have difficulty with.

54mm Waiteri tribe: Starting work on the Shaman (and his "puppet" show)

I sort of worried myself into doing the shaman first. I was trying to figure out where I would get an animal head for him to carry (for his magic "puppet" show.) Then I realized, he might have a skull rather than a head. This helped because I've sculpted small, ambiguous animal skulls before. So I chose the smilodon (saber tooth tiger.)

I looked up a few images of saber tooth skulls and got crackin'! I wasn't looking to make an exact, anatomical skull; I just wanted to make it "look like" a saber tooth's skull. I guess I'm just lazy (I actually have a degree in medical and scientific illustration-- Hey, I can draw or paint you an excellent smilodon, I just can't sculpt it very well.) In any case, it wasn't about the animal the shaman was carrying, but how he was using it in his animalistic rites.

When I was happy with the skull, I set it aside and began on those large incisors. I made these from one piece. I rolled a piece of green stuff into what I call a pointed cigar. I curved in the ends and worked them into sharp points. Then I used my clay pusher tool to flatten the teeth a bit. I set it aside to cure. I made the teeth from one piece because this helped to keep the teeth close to the same size. To get my teeth, I simply cut the piece in half when the green stuff had cured.

Attached to this skull will be some fur/skins to complete the effect of the shaman's "puppet" cat. The skin would be in the general shape of the smilodon, so I sculpted rough paws to be added to the "puppet" as well. I think I will leave the claws out and have them as a necklace worn by the shaman. Again, this is me being lazy. I do have the points to make claws; it's just a matter if fiddling with them and getting superglue all over my fingers. Ugh. Dangit, ok, I'll add the claws.

You'll notice a piece of brass rod in the shaman's hand: I've flattened and shaped this a bit (on the anvil), and it will be painted up to look like a large animal's (mammoth?) rib that the shaman is using to help support his puppet. I only added this so that the shaman looked like he was actually doing something with his other hand.

Quick note: I think the anvil is one of my favorite tools these days. I use it for swords, spears, blades, ribs (a first for me), and bending and shaping brass rod for other projects. If you're on the fence about buying one, keep in mind, they're not too expensive (especially for folks who regularly drop big bills on small soldiers, anyway). The anvil I own can be found over at Micro Mark for $20.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

54mm Waiteri tribe: Basing; also a Scale review

I dug out my bases and compared them with the new tribe; Many of the bases worked just fine (40mm seemed to be the best,) but I decided to stick with my original idea of using poker chips. They actually measure close to 40mm. I also like their thickness; that extra material provides just a little more grip on the pin.

Scale Comparison
A friend of mine mentioned that my minis just keep getting bigger and bigger, "pretty soon, you're going to be playing with dolls, Carmen."

Yep, they are getting bigger. I think 54mm is the max-out though; I want stuff to be able to fit in Chessex cases (which I can get easily by painting for store credit at my FLGS.) Anyway, here's a quick review photo of some of the figures, genres and scales I've done. So if you were looking to get into a different scale, here's kind of what they look like next to one another.

* The gladiators stand between 45-50mm. The base is a little higher than the poker chip which makes this gladiator look as tall as my new tribesmen.

Friday, May 28, 2010

54mm Waiteri tribe: First look at Bronze Age's 54mm generics

Sweet! The figures that will make up my tribe have arrived, and they look great. The first thing I noticed is that they do not have bases- no slotta and no integral base; this will make them FAR easier to base (slotta bases not required and no integral base to spend time filing off.)

Instead, there are pegs on one foot of each figure. The pegs look like they'll fit into a hole on a common Games Workshop monster base. I think I have one or two bases laying about; I'll give it a try. Otherwise, I will clip the pegs and pin the figures to poker chips (a little of 40mm.) As I mentioned earlier, the chips are heavier, cheap and easy to find.

Another thing I like looking at these figures is the muscle detail. It's as if David at Bronze Age Miniatures, looked at a Burne Hogarth book ("Dynamic Anatomy") and transformed the art into sculpture. Lots and lots of muscles on these figures, all the way around. This poses a small dilemma: I want to add furs and skins, but I don't want to cover up too much of the sculpts. A few of these figures may just have loin cloths.

I originally wanted one figure to be swinging a two-handed flint axe, but the pose also looks great with a spear, as if he's preparing to deliver the death thrust. To remedy my indecision on which weapon to give him, I think I may just order a second copy of the figure later (as well as a few seconds of others. I can see multiple uses for most of these.)

There are a lot of little things about these figures that also make them great, but too many to put here. But a quick example of a small detail that adds to a figure: One figure stands with his hands at his side, but he's not actually standing: One foot (just the heel) is ever so slightly lifted off the ground. It's hard to describe- it's such a subtle action, but it can speak volumes. A lot of figures these days have such extreme, dramatic, comic book-inspired poses (just as some of these do- nothing wrong with that), but this figure, standing steadfast with his one heel barely lifted demonstrates a more profound action. This figure will be my chief, standing proud over his tribe, and, with that one lifted foot, preparing to take his first step on a long journey ahead of his tribe on the search for mammoth, aurochs, a new home, enemies and other adventures.

Yes, these figures are excellent. The babes have nice racks, too.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Making flint-tipped spear points

Since I'm going to have a prehistoric tribe, I figured I better start making some prehistoric spears.

1: Since I want my spears to look a little more as if they were straight from the tree, the first thing I do is take my hammer and anvil and randomly bang out a few areas along the brass rod. This will simulate bends and some of the smoother knots in a tree branch or sapling. You'll notice your brass rod bending here and there; don't worry about that just yet (or at all, depending on how primitive your tribe might be).

2: Bang out your rough spear points- these don't have to be too wide but you'll want them thin enough that you can clip them and work them over with some needle files. At this point, you can grab a pair of pliers and try to straighten out the kinks and bends in your spears. They don't have to be perfectly straight, however; remember, these are prehistoric.

3: To reach this phase, I use a pair of wire cutters to trim and point my spear tips.

4: Now grab your pliers again- I prefer toothed pliers since they'll hold my spears more steadily as I work them in the next steps.

5: While holding the spear with your pliers, use a needle file to work the spear point into this basic shape. The inset image shows a cross section of your spear point. It doesn't have to be perfect! (6: Some clipped, trimmed and filed spear points- at this point, for most fantasy and historic applications, the spears are finished. But for "older" applications, we need to do a couple more things.)

7: Still holding the spear with your pliers, take the edge of a needle file and file out some nicks and notches along the edges you formed on your spear point from the filing in step 5. Then repeat this step along the sides of your point. Apply the nicks and notches randomly up and down the point. After you've filed a few of these gaps into your spear points, you should be able to see a decent representation of the chipping and flint-napping seen in prehistoric points and tools.

8: Since these spears won't be subject to any casting processes, I simply use some twine to wrap the ends of my spears (I applied a bit of superglue first to the spear, then I wrapped the twine.) Done!

These five spears only took me about 1/2 hour. Now I made these for 54mm size figures, but I'm sure the spear point sizes here would work fine with 28mm. I used 3/64" brass rod cut into 3" lengths. For 28mm, you could probably cut the length down to 1" to 2".

Remember: Always wear safety glasses when you hammer on metal (as well as when you clip the spear points- sometimes those little clippings will snap off, flying across the room). Also, you might want to wear a mask during the filing. Brass dust (just as any small, particulate matter, especially metallic) is not good for your lungs. If you don't wear a mask, be aware of where the dust is going. Sometimes I gently blow on the figure as I file, blowing the metallic dust away from me.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Showing off: Making a terrain display shelf

Until the new tribe arrives, I've filled a little of my time making this display shelf to increase and standardize some of my shelf space. It was about the easiest piece of terrain I've ever done, and it only took about 1 1/2 hours of actual work time.

Here's how I did it!...

What you'll need (What I used anyway; feel free to substitute): Blue foam (I used 1/2-inch thickness here, but thicker layers will allow miniatures further back to be seen more easily), Hot foam cutter (or other method of cutting. The cutter just makes things a lot easier if you're using foam.) White glue (PVA or wood), paint, and flock (or static grass or gravel or whatever you like to use on your bases.)

1: I've jumped straight past the cutting and assembling steps in this photo. I've measured the space on my shelf (28 3/4"x11 1/4") and decided on 2-inch terrace widths. This width allows enough space for larger scale minis, cavalry figures and most monster figures. This also allows me 5 terrace levels. I can easily fit 100 standard 28mm figures on this shelf.
You can use PVA glue to assemble your levels. I didn't worry about the sides too much since these would be hidden by the walls of my shelving unit.
In this step, you can see I've covered the entire piece with a coat of wood glue; this serves two purposes, it gives the piece strength and it gives you a nice surface to apply paint to in the next step.

2: Here I've squirted some acrylic paint on each of the terraces. Use cheap craft paints for this. All I had at hand was some bright green, so I've muted it by throwing down a little brown as well.

3: By the time you've finished spreading out the paint (depending on how thick you put it on), those areas where you started painting should already be drying. They were for me, anyway. I started with the green and then went to the gray (to simulate a stony foundation). I chose this order because if I got any gray paint on my green terraces, it wold simply be covered up with my flock later.

4: My green is layed down as well as my stone walls (which have also been lightly dry brushed.) Time to dig out the glue!

5: Mix up some water and PVA glue (I went about 4:1, glue to water here.) Get an old brush and spread it around.

6: After you're happy with the glue coverage, start sprinkling the flock. It will take a lot, so be prepared with enough flock at hand. This piece took about 1/4-1/3 of a tub of Games Workshop flock.

7: Done! Let your display dry overnight. You can inspect the piece closely and apply patched of flock to bare spots, or paint to areas you might have missed. You can also accent the flock with small pieces of shrub or other vegetation if you want.
I wanted to use static grass (for a softer look and feel), but I prefer static grass for basing my minis, and I had some old flock that I knew I would not otherwise use. When the glue dries (it's not dry in the final pic), I will add patches of static grass to give it a little variety.

Yes, of course this is the same method for making stepped hills, but did you think to make your hills into display areas? What? You did? Oh. Ok. Good for you. ;)

You can, of course, simply place the minis on the flat shelf, and there is a little more space if you do so, but if you want your minis to all be seen, try this simple project out. All that you need to invest is a couple hours of work time and a couple overnight's worth of waiting.

When the glue dries, I'll put some minis on the new piece and (try to remember to) update this post with a new picture.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

First 54mm prehistoric hunter (Day 4 and 5)

I've finished all the sculpting for my first 54mm early human. I decided the easiest thing to do for his left arm would be to have it rest on a water pouch. On day 4, I made the pouch which was about the easiest thing I've done yet. I used a clay pusher tool to add wrinkles and an indentation where the arm would rest on the pouch. I used a needle to poke tiny stitch marks around the pouch.

I let the green stuff cure overnight. In the meantime, I replaced the hunter's spear with a longer spear. I also banged out a few random flat spots and bends in the new spear to give it a bit more natural look, not necessarily with knots and heavy wood grain, but as if it was a branch that had been straightened over a fire. I also used twine to add binding for the spear point.

The next day, I sculpted the arm and hand right onto the water pouch. I added a piece of twine as a strap for the water pouch. I also added a couple smaller bags around his waist. Then I called it finished.

I'm thinking about using old clay poker chips as bases: They're heavy, round, standardize, a good size for the scale, a little more readily available than the bases I currently use, and the engraved tops will be hidden with flock, bush, grass and other terrain. That's the plan; I'm not going to base this guy until I get the rest. I want to make sure they'll all fit on poker chip bases.

Tomorrow, I'll prime this figure and start painting him this week. Hopefully, the rest of the tribe will arrive soon, so I can base this one. But I'm patient; they'll arrive when they arrive.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Gettin' ready for some prehistory!

I've put in my order and payment for my first order at Bronze Age Miniatures, and I'm totally psyched! David is a good communicator and makes the process easy. He also told me he's working on some stuff that will fit my project better, so I'm looking forward to see what he sculpts.
Remember that list of exceptional sellers I posted earlier? David and his Bronze Age Miniatures can be added.

There's a pretty good chance I'll put in another order in the future; I've been really thinking about these. I've even started writing a little history of my tribe: They are the Waiteri tribe of the Moonblood people. That is NOT a werewolf reference in case you were wondering. I'm going to borrow from real-life tribes to create the back story for my tribe.

Yanamamo myth says the Moon ate the souls of children, so an angry hunter (a god?) shot the Moon with an arrow, and the Moon bled all over the Earth. From the blood puddles were born mortal men. From the larger puddles were born men so fierce (Waiteri is the Yanamamo word for "fierce") that they killed themselves off. Men from smaller puddles were still somewhat waiteri, but survived. Yanamamo say of their tribal members that the fiercer ones have more of the moon's blood in them. Hence, the Waiteri tribe.

I had another realization: My tribe will need a shaman. This is the figure (above, copied from Bronze Age's website) I will convert to that purpose. His upraised hand will be holding the head of an animal (I hope to find a decent minotaur/bull head) with a full skin flowing over the shaman's arms. His back hand may be holding a stick (I haven't decided for sure) to help prop up his bull "puppet." I have it visualized in my head; I'll try to get a drawing out in the future.
Oh, it may be a bull, or perhaps a big cat (Yanamamo fear Jaguar.) It really depends on what animal head I can acquire or sculpt. I'll leave the shaman bald, and may even have him go "commando."

Thanks, Clovis, for giving me some direction. Sorry, again, it's not Sci-fi. Maybe I'll slip in something during this new project.
I'm sure David at Bronze Age thank$ you, too ;)

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

First 54mm prehistoric hunter (Day 3)

I actually did this before I went to Kansas City. And really, I didn't do too much extra here, just attached the right arm. It shows enough that I'll have to add a thumb. I'm still not sure what to do with the other arm; I think I'll have it either simply resting at his side, or carrying an item of some sort ... maybe a spear bundle? water pouch? kindling?
I've also added some buckskin details to the top of the leggings as well as to the loin cloth.

(Sorry about the poor lighting. I'll get better pics when he is finished. And I'll try to get proper photos before I prime him.)

In other news, I'm off to Tabletop Games tomorrow. I don't plan on spending too much, but I have a couple things in mind -- boardgame (Tuvala), some Confrontation minis (they had some of the old metal blisters last time I was there) -- but I'm saving most of my spending money for some of those Bronze Age 54s. David also informs me he is working on more; that is a BIG selling point for me: I know I'll be able to expand my tribe. Well, maybe I should START my tribe.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

First 54mm prehistoric hunter (Day 2)

Well, ok, I worked for an hour or so on Day 1, and another hour or so on Day 2, so I guess this post could be titled Hour 2. ANYway, today I added some folded-over buckskin liners on the loin cloth and "boots." I also sculpted a rudimentary arm on the spear hand. I purposely added more length than I needed on the arm with the plan to cut off what I don't need later. I'm still not sure how I'll have the other hand posed.

I also have a pic here of my buckskin supply. Buckskin is easy to sculpt. Just flatten out some green stuff to almost paper thin, then tear the edges at random. I usually will then pick it up with a needle or sculpting tool and apply it to the figure still uncured, but I'm gonna let this batch cure to see how well I can work with it, as thin as it is.

As well as clothing, the buckskin can be used to make other items such as bed rolls, stretched skins and shelter coverings.

Friday, May 14, 2010

First 54mm prehistoric hunter

Holy smokes, I think I can do it! I'm happy with my first effort here, anyway. I used a 54mm captive germanic warrior from the Alpha line (sold at Black Cat) as my base figure. My original idea was simply to throw some fur anklets and loin cloths on him. Add some hair and make him a prehistoric captive to be sacrificed by a shaman.

WELL, I had some green stuff leftover, and I remember making hides for my Sculpey huts. So I flattened the green stuff and tore the edges, and decided it wasn't a bad looking buck skin poncho my captive could be wearing. I threw it one, and it immediately looked like it was blowing in the wind. It also covered his bound hands. Suddenly, I saw a hunter trying to stay bundled against the Fall winds. Well, I might as well have him holding a spear.

At this point, I'm not sure exactly how his arms will be positioned beneath the poncho (I won't actually sculpt the arms, but I want them to be in an implied position.) I may sculpt his other hand on the spear (holding it two-handed, though, not necessarily at the ready.)

Anyway, I'll have to get back to this figure later; I have to head to work. But that will give the green stuff time to cure, and me time to figure out the next step. I'm pretty psyched. And if Bronze Age Miniatures happens to be reading this, they should be happy, too. I'm about a week away from dropping about $150 to start my tribe.

Note: Hey, and that's the first hand I've ever sculpted! (Don't look on the other side though, there's no thumb- that side will be hidden anyway.) And, yes, I do have to fix his hair a bit- I think it's too far cured at this point. Oh well. I still like the figure.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Reaper Black Orc (3429) converted

Sometimes the painting is god-awful slow, and sometimes I pick up a mini off the mountain and I have it painted within the hour! Granted, I did the conversion work (another hour) and priming of this figure a few weeks ago.

This is Reaper's Black Orc archer. I wanted a figure for D&D's fighter brawler option, and this figure (with a little bit of work) seemed to fit the bill. It was a simple matter of removing the bow and replacing it with a newly hammered blade. Now the back arm, meant originally to be holding an arrow, instead looks like it's cocked back to pummel an opponent. I also removed the arrow feathers from the quiver, turning it into a scabbard (that the sword he's carrying won't fit in, by the way), and added a bedroll to show that this figure is someone on the move (on an adventure, one might say.)

This was a fun, simple figure to paint, and it was nice to go back down to 28-32mm again. I'm used to it, now; Going from 28 to 54mm and all points between poses no problems for my painting. It was actually easier to go back to 28mm after painting the 54s for all that time.

Well, I may not have another post for a while. Vacation is getting close. I will have my laptop with me, so I may be keeping an eye on comments, and responding to questions etc. Until then, feel free to look around and stay awhile!

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

54mm Gladiators: Thraex 2 (And on to the next thing!)

I've finally finished my gladiator project! (for the time being.) Here is a thraex I made by converting a hoplomachus figure (in fact, the very first ((fighting)) figure I painted when I began doing these 54mm gladiators.) The weapon arm I used was the one swapped from the previous figure I posted. The original shield was ground down and a new shield (more appropriate to the thraex class)was added.

So that's 18 total fighters and one Charon. 12 of those figures were converted from five different models. What? Yeah, here, I took a few photos to show the different fighter classes I was able to achieve from the same models. Now, I couldn't have made most of these conversions without some greenstuff and especially without a few extra parts I requested from Harold at Blackcat Miniatures (Thanks, Harold!)

So, I remember a few months back saying that what I really wanted to paint were some large-scale gladiators, and now I've done it. And I am content. For the next few weeks, I'll paint up some odds and ends (Rackham Confrontation's Kyran the Hunter, and a couple Reaper figures) in the next few weeks. I'm not 100 percent on whether to make a fantasy/prehistoric/barbaric tribe from Bronze Age Miniatures' generic line, but I'm certainly close to saying yes. It would be a summer project, but with all that greenstuff pushing, and outdoors playing, this project would certainly take a while. I've pinned down 10 or 11 figures I'd like to purchase. I've even pasted and printed pics of those figures and sketched out some ideas of how I'd like them to look (see below). I also show three different ideas I have for one specific sculpt. If this next project goes well, I might start making my own figures from Bronze Age's generic line. Still, I'm not quite ready -- at least mentally -- to do it, but I think I at least have the skill to do it.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

54mm Gladiators: Demisecutor

Here's my converted gladiator (above) representing an unnamed class represented by this terracotta figure (right) from the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge (UK). The conversion was simple: I swapped arms with a hoplomachus figure, and converted this figure's original helmet (he started off as a secutor.)
The conversion of the helmet was simple; I filed the front of the helmet flat, while preserving the center crest (as per the original statuette.) I redrilled the eye holes, and added greenstuff around the base of the helmet to give it a more conical shape. The crest on mine is much smaller than the terracotta figure it's based on; I admit to not consulting the original sourcework as much as I should have. I still like my representation, though.
I also rushed the painting a bit; This figure had been sitting on the table too long and I wanted to get it finished and onto the shelf with his brothers. that leaves one final gladiator to paint.
Again, this figure represents a class of gladiator that falls somewhere between murmillo and secutor, the only difference being the helmet. I've named mine a demisecutor, half-secutor, since, at this point in the class's transition, he is more secutor than murmillo in my opinion. I will pair him against retaririi, thraex and hoplomachii.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Frank frazetta dies

One of my favorite artist, Frank Frazetta, died from a stroke today. He was 82. Of course he was well-known for a lot of his fantasy paintings (including the one of Conan shown here), but less well-known is that he started out as a comic artist contributing to such strips as Buck Rogers, Flash Gordon and even Li’l Abner.
I guess I don't have much to say about him; I never met him, never did a school paper on him or read or collected his books. But, as a nerd, I certainly enjoyed his unabashed art.

Abrasive, audacious, brutal and free: THAT'S how you paint.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

What should I do next?

With my gladiator project winding down (two to go!), I've been wondering what my next project should be. I've enjoyed painting a couple barbarians; perhaps I should do a small horde? I've also been taking a long look at Heresy's trenchcoat gangers. Or should I commit to anything at all for the time being? I have plenty to paint, and I will paint some of it whether I have a major project or not. I have random odds and ends such as a few 54mm Civil War figures and a couple Blood Bowl teams. Those things will get painted.

I'm going to Kansas City soon; perhaps my pilgrimage to Tabletop Games will guide my soul. Until I make that trip, I've decided to not purchase anything or make a choice as to what to paint (except those odds and ends.) But suggestions are welcome.

Monday, May 3, 2010

54mm Gladiators: The afternoon show (more noxii)

Here's a couple more noxii/prisoners to throw into the arena. They're not quite done (the bases need a coat of dark brown ((I use Reaper Pro's Walnut brown on all my bases.)

These two represent a Celt and an ancient German captured from the battlefield and condemned to death ad gladium. The Celt has been given basic gladiatorial equipment to fight with, whereas the German is allowed to fight with his own weapons (though, I gave him a slightly better chance with a newer shield.)

All of the painting was straightforward; it was certainly fun and easy to do stripes at this scale. The woad I did freestyle with no plan. Even without a plan, I probably should have taken a little more time with it. I know I can do some more refined and detailed tattoos, but I wanted to get these two figures finished today. I'm still happy with the result.

The German figure is the one I gave all that extra beard to. A friend of mine looked at it for the first time (before it was painted) and said, "It's God!" Now I can't help think that every time I look at that figure. Though it's easier since his beard is brown instead of the stereotypical white. Still, I just pretend it's young God back in his rebellious days :) Other than young God's axe handle being replaced with brass rod (and the addition of the beard), both of these figures are shown as is. Even the Celt figure has his original blade (it was sturdy enough to not need any replacement.)

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Tabletop update: Gladiators and Kyran the hunter

Things have been going really slow with the painting. After I finished that Drac Mac Syro last week, I've been looking at my old Confrontation barbarians army. I think I'll leave most of it alone; the painting isn't bad and represents a time in my painting career when I picked my skill up to a new level. But I am taking one or two figures out of the army to repaint. The first one will be Kryan the hunter (dude riding a rock.) I'm giving him an extra-rocky base; it will also have some static grass growing here and there.

I've also STILL been painting the gladiators. I want to get them finished before I go on to anything new (have I said that before?) The flesh on all of them is finished (the photo has bad lighting, so none of the highlights can be seen.) The figure on the far left (kneeling) will get the celtic woad tattoo treatment.

I'll be heading to Kansas City sometime soon, and I'm going to try to make it to Tabletop Games in Overland Park- I'm hoping they still have a few Confrontation minis left yet. If not, they'll still have a nice assortment of other stuff I can usually only find on the Internet.